ageisano

My DIY itinerary through Dunhuang, Zhangye, Qinghai and Xi’an—with hotel recommendations, practical tips and lessons from the road.

Planning your own journey along China’s Silk Road sounds wonderfully adventurous.

And it is. Until you find yourself juggling train bookings, hotels, long-distance transfers and the occasional uncertainty about whether everything will come together.

Or perhaps that’s just me. 😉

Having shared the journey itself in Part 1 and my observations of modern China in Part 2, I thought I’d finish this series with something more practical: the route I chose, where I stayed, what worked and what I’d do differently.

I’ve been travelling solo since my early 30s, but experience has taught me that independent travel doesn’t mean doing absolutely everything yourself. It means designing a journey that suits you—and knowing when to call in some help.

My DIY Silk Road Itinerary

Singapore → Guangzhou → Dunhuang → Zhangye → Xining and Qinghai → Xi’an

Guangzhou was an overnight staging point before my direct domestic flight to Dunhuang, where the Silk Road adventure began.

Here’s how I divided my time:

Singapore → Guangzhou → Dunhuang → Zhangye → Xining → Qinghai Lake → Xi’an

Destination	Hotel nights	My approach
Guangzhou	1 night	Stayed at Novotel Baiyun Airport Hotel for convenience before flying to Dunhuang. Used the day to buy new hiking shoes and a rain- and windproof jacket from Chinese outdoor brand Toread.
Dunhuang	3 nights	Stayed at Agula Designer Landscape Hotel, right in the heart of the action near the lively night market. Explored historical sites and desert landscapes.
Zhangye	2 nights	Stayed at Hampton by Hilton Zhangye, conveniently close to the high-speed railway station, with exceptionally good service. Explored historical sites and the region’s distinctive landscapes.
Xining	2 nights (split stay)	Stayed at Sofitel Xining, which impressed me with its thoughtful hospitality. Used Xining as my base for a two-day excursion into Qinghai.
Qinghai Lake and Chaka Salt Lake	1 night	Hired a private driver for two full days, visiting Erlangjian Scenic Area on one day and Chaka Salt Lake on the other. Stayed overnight at Qinghai Lake Guanhu International Grand Hotel, with its beautiful design and views. For me, DIY travel isn’t about doing everything myself. It’s about deciding where I want to go—and when a little local help makes the journey more enjoyable.
Xi’an	2 nights	Stayed at Sofitel Xi’an on Renmin Square. Explored the city’s historical attractions and vibrant neighbourhoods before returning home.
Total	11 nights	A combination of high-speed rail, domestic flights and a private driver for the Qinghai excursion.

Total: 11 hotel nights, including Guangzhou.

High-speed trains connected the main stages of the journey, while a private driver made the Qinghai excursion much easier.

Why Qinghai Won Over Jiayuguan

Jiayuguan is historically significant, particularly for its famous pass associated with the western end of the Ming Great Wall.

So why leave it out?

Because I wanted Qinghai.

After the dry desert landscapes of Gansu, I was looking for something completely different: mountains, expansive skies, lakes and wide-open spaces.

Qinghai required more travel time and less straightforward ground arrangements. Trying to include Jiayuguan as well would have meant rushing or sacrificing time elsewhere.

I’m glad I made that choice. The contrast in landscapes was exactly what I wanted, and the overnight stay near Qinghai Lake meant we didn’t have to squeeze the entire excursion into one exhausting day.

As for Turpan, Urumqi and Kashgar, I’ve deliberately saved them for a future Xinjiang journey. They deserve more than a hurried appearance on an already crowded itinerary.

Planning lesson: A good itinerary isn’t about including every famous destination. It’s about giving your chosen destinations enough time to enjoy them.

Getting Around: Trains, Drivers and a Little Patience

High-Speed Rail: Wonderful Once You’re on Board

To be fair to Trip.com, I was using the beta version of its Trip Planner service, and the Qinghai arrangements were excellent. The private driver and overnight stay worked out beautifully.

The train-ticket bookings, however, were a little more nerve-racking than I’d anticipated.

I didn’t actually have a Plan B. Had the train tickets not come through, I would have considered flying and adjusting my itinerary accordingly.

Fortunately, everything worked out, and I secured second-class seats.

Next time, I’ll probably book the train tickets myself, as I successfully did for my Jiuzhaigou trip last year, while continuing to seek local assistance for more complicated excursions.

But perhaps the most useful lesson wasn’t about booking trains at all.

It was about staying calm, being flexible and taking things as they come. Having travel insurance also helped me keep the uncertainties in perspective, knowing I had some protection if things went wrong, subject of course to the policy’s coverage.

My advice: Plan carefully, but don’t become so attached to the plan that a change of arrangements spoils the adventure. Sometimes the best travel skill is simply learning to go with the flow.

When a Private Driver Makes Sense

I’m perfectly happy navigating cities and high-speed trains independently.

But Qinghai was different.

Reaching Chaka Salt Lake and exploring the surrounding region involved substantial driving. Arranging a local driver meant I could concentrate on the scenery rather than the logistics.

It also gave us opportunities for conversations along the way.

For me, this is the beauty of DIY travel: you decide which parts to handle yourself and where professional help adds value.

Independent doesn’t have to mean unnecessarily difficult.

The Preparation That Really Matters

My DIY Chengdu and Jiuzhaigou trip last year gave me a useful introduction to China’s digital travel systems. That experience made this more ambitious journey easier to manage.

If you’re planning something similar, I’d sort out the following before departure.

Digital Survival: The Essential Apps You Need Before You Land

• Trip.com: Hotels, trains and some tours.
• Alipay and WeChat: Digital payments, including at small shops and roadside stalls.
• Didi: Convenient transport around cities.
• Mobile data and translation tools: Especially helpful when your Mandarin, like mine, isn’t exactly fluent.

Set up your accounts and payment methods before leaving home. Discovering that something doesn’t work while standing outside a railway station with luggage is not my idea of adventure.

The Humble Power Bank

One of my best travel purchases was a Xiaomi power bank, which I bought in Chengdu last year before heading to Jiuzhaigou. And trust me, it was an excellent decision!

It has proved invaluable.

On a full-day excursion, it’s easy to drain your battery taking photographs of spectacular landscapes.

But in China, your phone is practically your wallet.

You need it for payments, Didi, maps, bookings and translation. Even roadside vendors commonly accept mobile payments.

There’s something rather amusing about travelling along one of the world’s oldest trading routes and being dependent on your phone battery to buy a snack.

So carry a fully charged power bank—and remember to recharge it overnight.

If you’re flying domestically in China, check the current airline and airport requirements for power banks, including capacity and certification rules. Keep permitted power banks in your cabin baggage.

A Few Other Practical Considerations

Layering is the secret to packing for China’s Silk Road.

The weather can vary considerably between Gansu’s desert landscapes and Qinghai’s higher elevations, sometimes even within the same day.

I packed a rain- and windproof jacket, a down jacket and a denim jacket, switching between them depending on the weather and where we were heading.

And, of course, my cashmeres. I never leave home for any trip without them!

They’re wonderfully versatile for layering, keeping me comfortable without sacrificing a little style along the way.

Comfortable walking shoes are equally important, particularly when you’re spending long days exploring historical sites and natural landscapes.

And don’t underestimate travel distances. A destination that looks reasonably close on a map can still involve hours on the road.

My advice: Pack versatile layers rather than a wardrobe for one season. You’ll be much better prepared for the Silk Road’s changing conditions—and still have room in your suitcase for a few discoveries along the way.

Where I Stayed: From Boutique Charm to Five-Star Comfort

One of the pleasures of planning my own itinerary is choosing accommodation that suits each destination.

Rather than sticking to one hotel brand or category, I mixed a cool, well-located boutique property with five-star hotels, both internationally branded and locally managed.

That combination worked beautifully for me. Agula in Dunhuang put me right in the heart of the action, Sofitel Xining offered exceptional hospitality, and Guanhu near Qinghai Lake surprised me with its design and wonderful views.

Each delivered something different, allowing me to make the most of my time in each destination.

For me, choosing the right hotel isn’t necessarily about luxury. It’s about finding the location, comfort and experience that best complement the journey.

A Word About Value

One thing I continue to appreciate about travelling in China is the value for money.

International hotel brands can offer attractive rates compared with similar properties in Singapore and other major cities I’ve visited. Local food, transport and everyday conveniences can also be remarkably affordable.

My travel style isn’t exactly budget travel, but neither is it extravagant.

I’m happy to spend on comfort, a good location or a private driver when it makes the journey better.

Travelling solo can cost more when accommodation and transport expenses aren’t shared, but independent travel gives you control over those choices.

Perhaps it’s the investor in me, but I’m more interested in fair value than simply finding the lowest price.

What I’d Do Differently—and What I’d Keep

Looking back, my lessons are surprisingly straightforward.

I’d book train tickets more proactively. The trains themselves were excellent; the uncertainty beforehand was not. Next time, I’d monitor ticket releases myself and have alternatives ready.

I’d keep the overnight Qinghai excursion. The distances justified it, and the scenery deserved the time. I wouldn’t trade that experience just to squeeze another famous landmark into the itinerary.

I’d continue combining high-speed rail with local drivers. It’s an efficient balance of independence, comfort and practicality.

I’d choose hotels for what they contribute to each stop. In Dunhuang, location mattered most. In Qinghai, the setting. In Xining, the hospitality.

And I’d still leave room for surprises.

I plan the broad structure carefully, but I don’t want to research every experience so thoroughly that there’s nothing left to discover.

The arrangements I made worked largely as I’d hoped. The unexpected moments were enjoyable too.

For me, a good DIY journey needs both.

The Best Itinerary Is the One That Works for You

A year ago, my Chengdu and Jiuzhaigou trip helped me become more comfortable navigating China’s digital travel systems independently.

This Silk Road journey built on that experience.

There were train-ticket nerves, long drives and moments when I wondered whether I’d been a little too ambitious.

But there were also excellent hotels, memorable encounters, extraordinary landscapes and the satisfaction of seeing a journey I’d designed come together.

Would I do it again?

Absolutely.

Would I change a few things?

Also absolutely.

And the places I left out? Jiayuguan can wait. So can Turpan, Urumqi and Kashgar, which deserve their own Xinjiang adventure.

After all, I’m not trying to finish travelling.

I’m trying to keep enjoying it.

Have you planned a DIY journey through China, or are you considering one? I’d love to hear which destinations are on your list—and what you’d most like to know.